We began with some delicacies from the para picar section — first and foremost, pimientos de padrón (£7) and pan con tomate (£4). The padróns were as they should be: piping hot, deliciously salty, and heaped up high. Less than a fiver for 3 sizeable pieces of pan con tomate feels like a steal, especially when Bar Esteban makes something so uncomplicated feel so flavourful and exciting. Starting with the classics sets a wonderful tone — we feel in safe hands.
Branching out from the tried and tested, we opted for the croquetas menorquinas (£8) from the specials menu. Crispy on the outside and richly gooey with sobrassada and manchego on the inside, this was a deviation worth making. But for those who miss this as a specials option, all hope is not lost: the croquetas de jamón with parsley mayo (£8) remain steady on the standard menu, and are sure to fulfil your croquette-related needs.
We enjoyed our tortilla (£8), but agreed that we would have been happy with it being half the size; non-threatening on the plate, one slice is pretty substantial, and given this is a dish with a standardised flavour profile — each bite is egg and potato — we didn’t give it all of our focus. The cheeseboard (£13), however, with Picos de Europa, Manchego & Monte Enebro, was worth taking some time on, and though the quince was a little grainy, pairing it with a bite of manchego and a sweet red grape was immensely tasty.
The star of the menu is, in my opinion, the courgette flower in tempura stuffed with goat cheese (£8.50). The textural experience — the crisp of the tempura, the crunch of the courgette, the smoothness of the goats cheese — is second to none. Drizzled in honey and decorated with little purple flowers, this is a beauty on the plate as well as the palate. Whilst tapas is for sharing, I know that I want a courgette flower of my own.
We finished up with the fried aubergine with walnuts & sugar cane honey (£8) and the marinated lamb with babaganoush (£13). The lamb was a little chewier than I’d hoped, but this was offset somewhat with the babaganoush base. The aubergine is another standout dish, beautifully presented and neatly matching the colours of the room.
For dessert, we shared a chocolate ganache (£7) and a scoop of raspberry sorbet (£3) which, I would argue, work best in conjunction with one another. The sharpness of the raspberry cuts through the intensity of the chocolate, finishing the meal on a well-balanced sweet-tooth high.
It is worth noting that, on a main menu where the most expensive dish is £18 and the cheapest is £4, with most sitting in a £7-£11 range, it isn’t always easy to ascertain dish size based on price, and so knowing where to start or how to pace yourself can be tricky. Of course, the staff are more than happy to walk you through it if you ask. As a Bar Esteban veteran, I was pleased to order a selection that sampled all corners of the menu. And as a food critic with an eating disorder, one thing I really take against is being told — especially if it is repeatedly — that you have ordered too much, that you will not handle it, that you will be too full. No matter what position of well-intentioned advice this may come from, it’s a restaurant feature that undercuts the enjoyment of the diner significantly.
Other than this drawback, though, it was a wonderful evening. Each dish is delicious, and there are so many standouts worth raving about. Balancing coziness and sophistication to create a space both comfortable and exciting, Bar Esteban is worth getting yourself to Crouch End for.
