Bilbao was the first city in Spain to industrialize in the nineteenth century, developing a big shipbuilding iron and steel industry. In the 1980s there was a move towards other kinds of services. An urban renewal plan took off in the ‘90s which inspired the collaborations between Basque authorities and the Guggenheim foundation.
Since then, the Spanish government has poured money into Bilbao to transform it from an industrial city into a tourist haven. Almost 83 million pounds was invested in the construction of the Guggenheim. The museum has pulled in more visitors year after year; the last statistics for 2005 reveal that it received 965.082 visitors.
Yet everyday life is just as fascinating for the tourist, from the best looking bartender, staying up all night and appreciating Gehry’s Guggenheim the next morning to more sightseeing, shops galore, intriguing suburbs, surfing and the local football team...
Bar del Guapo
The seven streets of the Old Town or Casco Viejo are popular for their bar-life. In one corner of the colonnaded Plaza Nueva is Zuga. Step inside; jostle past the locals sipping Rioja andTxakoli, a local fizzy white wine, and feast your eyes on piles of pintxos, Basque style tapas. Choose between the great heights of the ornately decorated breads with rolls of Serrano ham, hilltops of orange salmon roe, anchovy slivers or wedges of tortilla all stabbed with a toothpick. These are perhaps the best presented pinxtos in town and complimented by the haughty presence of the bartender or ‘el guapo’: a six foot, muscular, wide-jawed Basque with deep brown eyes.
Tip: No need to pay as you go: before moving on tot up all pintxos and glasses of wine consumed (more than you think, they are filled perilously low...)
Up all night
After stuffing yourself with pintxos, there are still more hours to kill. Eguzki Osteikoetxea, a twenty-year-old student at the Universidad de Deusto recommends going out in the New Town or the Ensanche district. The best bars here are ‘El Jaimes or Cafe Iruña on calle Licienciado Pozas.’ Eguzki’s typical choice of drink would be ‘two cubatas of Bombay sapphire and Kas limón.’
After bar hopping or pre-drinks at friend’s houses, Eguzki is ready to go out. The best clubs are first ‘Antzokia theatre’ and runners up would be ‘the Da Vinci, the Loft or the Flash.’ While Antzokia plays a blend of classic tunes, the latter are more popular electronic. Whichever you choose, you can be guaranteed they will stay open until the early hours.
‘El Gugen’
At some point during your stay, probably after a night on the town, you will discover the delights of the Guggenheim or “El Whoohenheim!”, as the female loudspeaker declares as the tram curves round the titanium scaled spectacle rising out of the River Nervion. Inexplicably the ‘G’ loses its edge; Gehry’s architectural fantasy is known affectionately as ‘el Gugen’, less of a mouthful.
This is just one view of the magnificent Guggenheim. But from any angle: the drive into Bilbao from the airport, walking up the Gran Vía, along the river, standing right next to it, catching sight of it will affect you. The interior and larger-than-life sculptures of a dog made from flowers and creepy iron wrought spider can only disappoint in comparison.
Sights to behold
Of course, there are still many more museums and attractions to see. Make time for Museo de Bellas Artes (Museo Plaza 2; 00 34 94 439 6060, www.museobilbao.com; 5.50E, 4E reductions) On Wednesdays there is free admission, but throughout the week the museum is busy with people looking at works by Goya and El Greco in the Classical Art section and Hockney and Bacon in Contemporary Art, as well as traditional Basque Art.
Nearby is Museo Maritimo (Muelle Ramon de la Sota, 1; 00 34 94 608 55 00,www.museomaritimobilbao.org/ingles/museo_maritimo.htm; 5E, 3.5E reductions) It is definitely worth having a look at its extensive maritime collection. There is also a temporary exhibition, usually of a very high standard. Outside the vast exhibition space there are boats docked up on the river that you can walk on.
Back in the Old Town visit the Cathedral de Santiago (Plaza Santiago; www.spain.info; free) and admire the fifteenth century Gothic Revival façade and spire. Inside the cathedral pay particular attention to the beautiful high altar and the elegant pews which look like they came straight out of the Conran shop. A minute away by the river is Mercado de la Ribera (Calle de la Ribera; 00 34 94 415 7086,www.mercadodelaribera) one of Europe’s largest covered markets. This distinctive yellow Art Deco building by the river has over three floors. On the ground floor is a spectacular array of fresh fish where you will see locals clamouring to get the best deal.
Also in the Old Town is the Funicular de Artxanda (Plaza Funicular; 00 34 94 445 4966; £1), Take the lift to the top of Artxanda Hill and enjoy a view over the Old Town’s higgledy piggledy rooftops and spires one way and the never ending Gran Via on the other.
Shops galore
After all this culture have a browse in the shops, from the eco shops in the Casco Viejo, the mainstay high street chain Zarato designer boutiques along the Gran Vía.
Eco is definitely in, as is organic clothing, such as the range in popular Natura in the Casco on Calle Sombrerería. With its moody lighting, Indian fabrics and trays of rings carved out of wood and more, it appeals to the environmentally aware. Another local clothes shop is Gorostiaga on Calle del Victor 3 (00 34 94 416 1276) which sells traditional Basque men’s txapela (berets) and leather goods. For more local souvenirs try Alacena del Victor Montes in the Plaza Nueva (00 34 94 415 4385, www.victormontesbilbao.com). This deli sells Basque specialities, including jars of peppers, packaged hams and good wines.
Heavy spenders should walk along the Gran Vía and the streets that cut across it. Check out Suarez (Gran Vía, 43), two floors of glittering jewellery on display, a richly decorated interior and a guard outside.
Gotcha!
Don’t confine yourself to the urban metropolis of Bilbao, there are other areas close by with equally bizarre names. TryGetxo the popular suburb a metro ride away.
Designed by Norman Foster the metro is elegant and reliable and runs on renewable energy. Locals call the curved glass entrances ‘fosteritos’ in honour of their namesake. Buy acreditrans ticket, 15E lasts a week. There are only two lines, take the Plentzia bound route and stop at one of the five stations in the town such as Areeta. Walk around the pretty medieval town, there are often markets here that cram their stalls in the tiny streets and performances are put on in the squares.
Further along the metro line is Algorta, an old fishing port. Also, check out Biskaia Bridge (a Unesco World Heritage Site). Take the glass lift to the footbridge suspended 50m above ground for a breathtaking view.
Surfers’ paradise: Sopelana
Continuing along the Plenzia metro line you will reach the stop for Sopelana beach. The Northern coast offers some of the best surf in Spain and this is a huge surfer hangout. It’s also a very attractive beach and not as touristy as the beach in the nearby town San Sebastian, known as La Concha for its curving shell shape. At Sopelana its possible to have surfing lessons, both for beginners and the more advanced. They are outstandingly good value, although be careful to get your instructor’s attention as many are enjoying the waves more than teaching their skills. The school also provides surfboards and wetsuits.
Aupa Athletic!
As well as surfing, you are likely to witness the local passion for football. The day the city’s treasured football team ‘Athletic Bilbao’ are playing aunter through the old town’s labyrinth of streets until, if it’s a big game such as the annual ‘Copa del Rey’ tournament, you might come across a screen at one end of the Plaza Nueva. There you will see barbecue smoke curling up above the heads of people dancing, hugging and smiling excitedly. The bars in the cloisters will be teaming with identical stripy bodies.
.While the Guggenheim draws in the crowds, it is worth visiting Bilbao for the charm of the Old Town and the real small scale life of the city and, if you’re lucky, a football match.
How to get there
Iberia (0870 609 0500, www.iberia.com) flies from Heathrow, via Madrid, from £230 return. Clickair (www.clickair.com) flies from Gatwick, and EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) flies from Stansted. P&O Ferries (08716 645 645www.poportsmouth.com) sails from Portsmouth from £215pp return with car.
Further information
Spanish Tourist Office: 020 7486 8077, 24-hour info/brochure line 08459 400180, www.spain.info/uk.
