Ever since the global 'discovery' of Peruvian cuisine, London has seen a plethora of dining offerings from the country that is currently home to two of the world's best 10 restaurants (including Central which holds the number 1 spot). Having visited many of London's attempts to cash in on this latest gastronomic phenomenon, I can vouch for their mixed success: pouring lime juice over various types of raw fish and pricing it up as 'leche de tigre' doesn't do justice to either ceviche or the rich gastronomy of this South American country. And so it was with some scepticism that I entered the premises of Chakana in Broadway Market, the Hackney street that looks more like Notting Hill these days, bristling with cosy upmarket abodes.
At first glance, however, it was clear that this Peruvian menu is devised by a chef with authentic knowledge, confidence and knows what he wants to deliver. Short and concise, there were not too many dishes to choose from, rather a classy selection from a much-loved Peruvian repertoire - from the popular ají de gallina to the delicate scallop tiradito - implying purpose rather than pretence.
As if answering my own personal cause, there it was...the octopus causa limeña that had eluded me since I first tasted it in Lima twenty-five years ago. These typical mini savoury trifles of stacked sumptiousness are made of papa amarilla (yellow potato), avocado and, usually, tuna, prawn, chicken or, if you are lucky, crab. But the pulpo variety, the causa of all causas, was one I'd never encountered in London and not what I was expecting on a drizzly winter evening in London Fields. It sang out from the flimsy sheet of typed paper and, before long, like Charlie scoffing his Willy Wonka bar, I was diving into this little edible flag of bright yellow, green and purple, devouring the succulent octopus drizzled in purple olive mayonnaise, as it oozed out of its perfect layered cake. Heaven.
Had I paid more attention to the briefing I wouldn't have been so surprised. For chef and co-owner of Chakana London is no other than Robert Ortiz, who earned Europe's only Peruvian cuisine Michelin star when he worked as head chef at Lima, one of the first to open in London.
Robert's style reflects the true ingenuity of Peruvian gastronomy - passion-led haute-cuisine at its most unpretentious, reflecting the country's multiple-layered history, its cultural and geographical diversity that somehow found their most glorious expression on dinner plates throughout Peru.
In some ways, the sparse wording of the menu undersells the sophisticated result. The yuca frita couldn't have been further from the dry sticks of yam we are used to; what arrived were soft buttery croquettes in finely flavoured bechamel. Likewise, the heart skewers (anticuchos corazon) are so tender and tasty, it would leave any kebab fan begging for the secret ingredient. The scallops slip down the throat, while unusual flavours dancing on the palate. And the ceviche is laced with surprise textures and contrasts; the sharpness of the lime offset by droplets of beetroot and sweet potato puree, while silky fish and crunchy corn flirt in sweet and sour juices.
Likewise, the main courses were far more luxurious and elevated than what the menu indicates. I had the suckling pig - the pork compact and airtight before falling apart under the crackling: reminiscent of the show-stopper that had earned Lima its Michelin star, this is clearly Robert's signature tune, which he carries with him wherever he goes. My guest had the Hot Ceviche, slightly cooked Red Mullet, with a curl of the corn lacing the tail, in a light sauce and found it delicious.
The running thread here is both a genuine knowledge and deep understanding of the cuisine and its context, combined with an attention to detail and skill applied by a top chef. These personal touches to authentic Peruvian classics left me curious to go back to try the other pedestrian sounding dishes, such as Huancaina potatoes or Andean Potatoe Stew, which no doubt disguise an elevated treatment, or unorthodox twists on standard repertoire, such as the beef or asparagus causas, which I've never tried.
The deserts also proved to be vehicles for Chef Robert's ever surprising finesse and brilliance; the dark chocolate mouse was rich and deep, with touches of sweet lucuma gel to offset the bitterness, and a creme caramel, bordering playfully on the burnt, framed with exciting little delicacies. The restaurant also boasts Europe's most extensive range of pisco, and some delicious cocktails, including a fine pisco sour, but also pisco plays on Cosmopolitan and Rum Punches, ideal for a cocktail fan like myself who likes to switch cocktails but (for the sake of my next morning) not alcohols. My guest had various non-alcoholic options, which were also delicious.
Ranging from £7 to £23 for its à la carte menu, I didn't think the prices were outrageous considering the quality of the food. I'd fare a punter's money would be better spent here than in some of the Mayfair options.
Chakana is clearly a passion-led partnership between Chef Robert and co-owner Steve Dickinson, who heads front of house. Dickinson discovered the wonders of Peruvian cuisine while living in Peru in the early noughties, and with his Peruvian wife came to the UK and opened Chakana, first in his native Birmingham. The focus is on quality and authenticity, which Dickinson admits "will probably not make us rich." With the passion very apparent on the plate, however, I've no doubt that once the word gets out, what was a relatively quiet Wednesday evening, will soon be buzzing with clamouring guests at the door.
Chakana is located at 41 Broadway Market, London and is open from 5pm to 12am from Tuesday to Friday, 12pm to 12am Saturday to Sunday, and closed on Mondays.
To find out more, visit: https://chakana-restaurant.co.uk/london
