Leafing through Paella, the latest gift to the kitchen from celebrated Spanish chef Omar Allibhoy, the mouth-watering flavours of Spain’s national dish leap out from the pages. More poignantly, they transport me back to the warm Valencian welcome of the city that first captured my heart back in the late 90s when, fresh from university, I got my first job working for the regional tourist board.
As a young 20-something, I loved losing myself amidst the Moorish labyrinth of narrow streets in Barrio Carmen and strolling along the nine kilometre-long Turia Gardens. Time ceased to exist and the soul became all important, as I soaked up the city’s spirit, but by far the most vivid of my Valencia memories centre on its cuisine, a perfectly cooked paella on the beach with a glass of chilled cava in the company of Valencianos.
Perusing Allibhoy’s self-confessed love letter to the dish, you can almost taste the saffron-infused rices cooked on an open fire. The recipes conjure up those special times spent holidaying in the country that knows, more than most, how to savour time with family and friends.
Allibhoy shares a host of different paella recipes with his readers, from the traditional Paella Valenciana, to meaty options, seafood varieties and vegetarian versions. It is a book accessible to all with straightforward instructions brought to life by beautiful images of the Valencia region; the Albufera rice fields, the foodie heaven of the city’s Mercat Central, its tantalising ingredients and its people.
If you thought that it’s a stretch to dedicate a whole book to one dish, Allibhoy’s range of possible paellas, whether classic arroz negro (as seen in title photo) or artichoke, chestnut and mushroom rice (below), shows that there is no one way of doing paella (incidentally Allibhoy defended Jamie Oliver when the British chef caused outrage in Spain by making paella with chorizo a few years back). Testament to Valencia itself - a city and region that celebrates its history while presenting a progressive vision for the future - Paella honours tradition but also encourages innovation.
Equally as important as the paellas themselves, Allibhoy introduces his readers to the essence of the paella eating experience with charming anecdotes from his childhood and early days in the kitchen, as well as some history and even a flicker of controversy to whet the appetite.
Far more than a series of instructions for delicious meals, Paella is a celebration of the Valencia region, of tradition, family, friendships and fiesta. Perhaps even more than tapas, paella is the ultimate sharing dish for those we love. For Allibhoy it is clear that creating a paella comes from the heart and I am already excited at the prospect of attempting to honour his passion!
Paella by Omar Allibhoy (Quadrille, £18) Photography by Facundo Bustamente.
