Week 1. Los Roques
Monday. Landed in chaotic Caracas, a city of motorways pointing to a cluster of skyscrapers. All around were brown shacks stacked on top of each other onto the hillside, as if clambering up to the sky. Really stunning in its symmetry though perhaps not a beauty one would wish on a city. Rather apprehensively I spent the day looking around Caracas for tours and it became obvious I had to go to the actual places first to do it cheaply. I took the cable car to Monte Aguila with its a dramatic view over Caracas. Not attractive but the mountain park is nice and walking down it was good training for the walks I plan to do in Parque Roraima.
Tuesday. I took a cheap flight to Los Roques, an archeapelago off the Caribbean coast just east of Caracas. Beautiful sunset flight over the caribbean. The main island is really quaint and peaceful, mostly run by Italians. I looked for Gregorio’s posada which was recommended to me and indeed simple and friendly (£15). I ate with some Americans in the same posada, Martha and Matt and two nice looking but Republican brothers Kurt and Fritz Wiesel, biting my tongue through most of the meal!
Thursday. Took a boat to Careñero island. Absolutely beautiful turquoise water, white sand, coral and lobsters. Just paradise. Had dinner with Americans and finally row with Kurt (sorry, couldn’t keep it in any longer!) The next day we went to Madrisqui, another lovely island. Dinner with yanks, plus more yanks. Too much explaining to do…I need a holiday!
Sunday. Day in posada lying about because of my sunburn! Of yes, warning: island hopping in Los Roques is great, but no shade! Lovely evening with the people in the posada (Americans had left) and got paralytic on grappa (raw rum).
Week 2: Parque Canaima
Monday: Wake up remembering nothing. Have terrible throat from the rum. Head for Francisqui island with Italians. Feel ill most of the day. But nice Italian restaurant in the evening.
Tuesday. Left Los Roques. Verdict – amazing place, nice pueblo, food, nature. Expensive but worth it. Arrived Caracas airport not knowing how to get to Ciudad Bolivar for my Roraima trip. Stroke of luck: Gregorio from the Los Roques posada was at airport to meet Spanish couple who were very nice. He took me and them for dinner and then to bus station. Left for Cuidad Bolivar on the overnight bus.
Wednesday: We arrived at 5.30 am. Sat in bus station waiting till it got light, wondering what to do. Approached by Bernal tour guy which from book sounded good (£150 all in). Considering… Why not? Solved transport problem. The tour started with a plane ride to Parque Nacional Canaima with Rikke (Danish) Ingrid and Claudia (Colombians) Steve (US) over Angel Falls. Didn’t think of asking whether the famous Angel Falls had any water! Not a drop. Con! The Impressive tepuy didn’t quite do enough to distract us from the terrifying flight. The plane was being tossed about like a rag doll. The Colombians were sick and the pilot biting his nails. But then the beautiful scenery came: a lagoon and amazing water falls. We landed, had lunch and walked with guide and group to Salto Sapo (dry). Incredible countryside. Passed out in hammock. Long day!
Thursday: Two more excursions. Jacuzzi in waterfalls,Canaima village. Great tour group of French and Germans plus Gloria (mad Italian woman). Boozy night, fire on beach and midnight swim!
Friday: Leave for Santa Elena on plane. My turn to be sick! Met Carlos (guide) and three Italians. Invited me on 6 day tour of La Gran Sabana. Considering but really wanted to go to Parque Roraima… Took me to nice hotel (£5) Walked round looking for a Roraima trip. Didn’t want all youngsters. Decided on group organized by Claude (French Canadian) ($230 for 6 days) although Andreas (German) seemed nice too and had two nice English (Indian) people already on it.
Saturday: Group formed. Claes and Jill Grundsten (well known Swedish wildlife photographer), Maurice and René (French, he former head of guide school in Chamonix), Carlo Capelli (Italian journalist). Guides- Kendall (Guyanese Pemon) and Mireille (French) and Cheo (cook)/Fines (porter). Quite a mix, just how I like it. Fiesta in town, crowning of carnival queen. Never heard such a racket. Gloria from Canaima turns up in a flap. Stays with me in back of hotel for one night.
Week 3. Parque Roraima
Sunday. The Parque Roraima tour. Leave at 9 am. I had my sleeping bag packed in my small rucksack. Claude said it was too light so I had to unpack and take big pack with big sleeping bag. Set out in jeep to indian village at entrance to the park to start trek. Packs all weighed. Luckily my sleeping bag could be carried by porters so I got my little pack back. Set off towards Roraima in the distance. Walked five hours in savannah towards it, low hills, brown grass burned by indians for various unfathomable reasons, few trees. Roraima (good) and Kukenan (evil) tepuys drawing us closer. Night at camp by very cold river. Great wash! Good dinner, slept badly (very hard). Because it is Carnival there are various groups going simultaneously. Andreas with Robert and Liz and four young Venezuelans. Caracas professor (Chavista) with his kids and nephew (very nice). Another Caracas guy with his kids. Both groups with nice guides. Nice conversation on the way.
Monday: Set off at 8. Four hours walk over steep savannah to lunch by another river, having crossed two more. Two more hours to base camp at foot of Roraima. Solid vertical wall in front of us…looks impossible! Vegetation changes to cloud forest. Camp. Group very harmonious. Maurice lovely, teaching me to walk. Guides nice. I thought I would slow the team down because of my age, but I turn out to be useful for the group as the only person with the languages to talk to everyone properly.
Tuesday: Slept better. Up early again. Start to climb through cloud forest grown in the fault in the cliff face. Four hours hard slog up 800 metres to 2400 but wonderful vegetation on the way. Reached top. Very misty and mysterious. Amazing rock formations. Rock hotels in caves with jutting out overhangs for different groups. Ours had lovely ‘tropical’ garden in front. Extraordinary!!!
Walked to highest point (2800 m) in the afternoon. Sun came out, view over steep rock climb we’d just done and the whole savannah area. Sheer drops! Walking across grey landscape with tiny coloured plant islands, comprising of clusters of extraordinary unique plants. Mixture of lunar landscape and botanical garden, harmonious shades, loads of different orchids. Just stunning. Started getting very cold in the late afternoon so told jokes to keep warm. Cheo the cook is lovely and always smiling. Early to bed (8pm) with rum toddy. Learned to put my own tent up.
Wednesday: Woke at 6 am to bright sunshine but it had clouded over by 7 am after breakfast. Set off to trek on top of tepuy looking at exquisite and unique flowers, stones, crystals, waterfalls, amazing combinations of shapes and colours. No more film unfortunately. Have to rely on Claes and others. Sun in and out intermittently throughout the day. Unfortunately did not clear at “Abismo” and “Ventana” so couldn’t see sheer drop and view of Mount Kukenan very well. Went to swim in the “Jacuzzi”, an extraordinary series of red walled pools with crystal filled bottoms. Everyone went in even though it was freezing. The vibes from the crystals are supposed to take years off you and give you energy as well. Then we went through another crystal filled valley which was very beautiful. This was followed by a horrible late afternoon in the fog hanging about the ‘hotel’ waiting for a bed and being very cold. Rum again with supper, thank God. Horrible night, cold and wet.
Thursday: Got up at 5 am to go to the Abyss with Claes who was determined to photograph it. We were rewarded with brilliant sunrise and three hours of sun before clouded over again. This is obviously the pattern. Set off down the cliff at 8 am. Very tough climb down the side of the tepuy again. Reached base after three hours (lunch) then straight on to the Tek river camp. Very tired and aching thighs by now. We had a nice swim in Tek and good conservation at dinner. Kendall the guide’s politics are a bit wonky but he has an interesting indigenous point of view on Chavez’ indian policies. Eric (prof. From Caracas) and his kids were more useful on facts. Last evening was good fun, last time all the four tours were together. Claes was a bit flabbergasted at the number of people, he thought we’d be alone, we all did.
Friday: Four hours lovely sunny trek to end of trip inParaitepui. Thighs in agony by now from downhill walking. Afternoon spent in lovely shower, washing, cleaning up. Then whole group went to La Linea (Brazilian border town of Boa Vista) for a good nosh (fantastic meat). It was last night of Carnival but we didn’t stay because Kendall and Cheo had to be up and off on another tour in the morning. So sat up talking with Jill and Renée.
Saturday: Jill and Claes set off on waterfall tour. I went with them to Quebrada Jaspe which is a wide fall with fantastic jasper (bright red!) rock bottom to river. Spectacular. Not much water so I decided to stay there all day while Jill Claes continued on with Mario (Chilean guide). Got ride back with young Brazilans with very loud samba music in car. Ate with Maurice/Renée, Richard/Liz and 2 Brazilians. They were all leaving that night. Decided to join Maurice Renee on beach atPeninsula Paria later.
Week 4: some gorgeous beaches to the east of Caracas
Monday: Survived overnight bus to Puerto Ordaz; warm sleeping bag solved perennial freezing air conditioning in buses. Got off at 5 am at San Felix and changed to bus for Carúpano crossing Orinoco river on the ferry. Across plains then lovely mountain range to the coast. Then got a por puesto to Rio Caribe. Lovely coastal road ruined by rubbish. Got to Posada Papagayo (£5) and found Maurice and Renee. Getting to the beach was a problem as no public transport so they were moving to another posada in Playa Medina further along coast. Ate at nice fish place. Pretty town but people not friendly.
Tuesday: Owner of El Milagro posada (£12 all inc.) came to get us in a truck. Stopped to buy chickens etc. on way. Lovely little friendly posada in Medina, 2 km. from beautiful Playa Medina, crescent shaped coco lined white beach, although sea not so great (what could be after Los Roques?). Good fish dinner. Nice couple from Liverpool, lots of Chechs. The cook was put in my room.
Wednesday: Driven to Playa Puy Pui by Don Efraín. Much longer beach with waves, lovely palms. Spent the day there. Couple from England camping on beach. Nice dinner again. Cook plus German couple (Oliver and Isa) put in my room. Walked to village to buy rum.
Saturday: spent the last two days in Medina again. Just nice distance there and back. Village for rum again. Teo wonderful days. Very harmonious. Very few people until today when the invasion of Venezuelans being weekend. Time to leave? Taxi to Rio Caribe. Only hammock available at Papagayo posada so took it.
Sunday: Got up early to get the bus to Puerto de la Cruz but it didn’t come. Took por puesto to Carúpano and then another to Puerto de la Cruz. Renee and Maurice got out at Playa Colorada. Sorry to leave them. Hope to see them again. Ferry from Puerto de la Cruz to Isla Margarita, very posh expensive one. Margarita truly horrible, arid and built up (although I’m sure there were nice bits) so I decided not to stay. Awful hotel in awful area.
Monday: Early morning flight to Caracas. Waited for Miami flight. Got on the plane but part of the door fell off so everyone put on another flight. We left later but I missed London connection. Was exceptionally lucky to be given AA voucher by very nice ticketing rep for Holiday Inn. Took not so lucky Venezuelan Dinorah with me.
Tuesday: Spent the day at Holiday Inn pool. Went to airport at 5 pm and scraped on London flight. Home on my birthday!!!!
