From a menu that included all the Mexican classics - from tacos al pastor to cochinita pibil - I was most excited to try the birria tacos- they did not disappoint. An earthy, smokey beef taco. The beef was tender, complimented with crunchy red onions giving the tacos a complex, rich texture. Pibil is an underground pit or the process of wrapping meat in banana leaves and cooking it. Their pibil tacos were also excellent. (Pibil is an underground pit or the process of wrapping meat in banana leaves and cooking it). On the plate that translated into slow cooked pork with a subtle kick of spice, the flavour cut by pickled onions.
I brought along a friend, Matthew, with an open mind for trying new foods for this review. Despite never having experienced proper Mexican food - beyond tacos in the school canteen- decades of Mexican culinary expertise repaid an adventurous palate.
El Cenote has no air of pretention. The restaurant gives off a relaxed speakeasy feel, tucked away just next door to Camden Station, North London. As you might expect from the location,the atmosphere is bustling and vibrant. This is a place to come to spend time with people you enjoy to laugh with over a margarita and taco. The humming din of happy customers speaks for itself about the food.
Through a mouthful of Birria, Matthew remarks that the restaurant would be a great location for a date. Intimate lighting and great tacos lead us both to reflectl that our romantic partners might have been a better choice to share the experience. The sounds of Bossa Nova, reggaeton, salsa and Bachata diffuse through the restaurant, forcing you to fight against every instinct to get up and dance.
So, who is the mastermind and head chef in the kitchen? For owner Daniel Chingdon cooking is in his blood. He started cooking at the age of 8 in his home province of Michoacan, near the city of Guadalajara where he made his first pork taquitos. This is a Mexican dish of rolled-up tortillas that are filled and fried, and often served with condiments like guacamole and sour cream. That tradition of family cooking translates to the plate. When you take a bite for the first time you feel transported to the small house where Daniel watched his grandmother’s stove and learned.
Despite being the owner, Daniel rolls up his sleeves in the kitchen- everyday making sure each dish reflects the reputation he has worked so hard to build. When I ask him how he keeps for cooking after such a long time he tells me the key is music.Daniel and employees play latin music as they cook moving to the rhythm of the beat as they serve up. It’s at this point that Daniel confides that he is also a mariachi singer, followed by a demo of his singing in action. Not quite as good as his cooking skills but close!
Daniel feels what sets El Cenote apart from some other Mexican restaurants in London is the pride in doing the basics of mexican food authentically and well - in a way that is accessible to all. In contrast to some Latin American restaurants that try to ‘elevate’ the cuisine for a more up-market clientele Daniel brings the meals eaten by the masses of Mexico to Camden. Daniel’s background is in cooking in upmarket Latin restaurants where he saw a gap in the market for providing reasonable priced, good quality and simple Mexican food.
El Cenote is a new must-try on the Camden food scene. That’s unless you don’t enjoy spectacular margaritas, great ambience, good food, great service all run by an owner with an undying passion for being an ambassador of his people’s cuisine for the British public. Go, you won’t regret it!
Cenote, 2 Inverness St, London NW1 7HJ, United Kingdom. https://www.elcenotecamden.com/
