While the photos of Evita and Perón and some Buenos Aires’ landmarks on the walls betray an Argentine flavour of this restaurant, you wouldn't immeditely guess it was an Argentine parrilla. Though inspired by Argentine cuisine, Comedor Bar & Grill really excels in fusing many different ingredients and flavours.
At a table nearby, a group of thirty-something guys were tucking into some hefty looking steaks, but a top food critic or a young couple on a romantic dinner would be just as at home here.
Although this restaurant has been at N1 for over two decades, owner and head Chef Federico Pérez Díaz started running the kitchen and the business only a few years ago. “Our jewel is, of course, the meat, but we offer a varied menu with distinctive South American touches,” said Federico as he artistically displayed a rich sample of succulent Argentinian meat cuts, preceded by entry classics empanadas and ‘provoleta’ (melted provolone cheese), and accompanied by an exclusively Argentinan, Chilean and Uruguayan wine list.
Pérez Díaz should be congratulated on putting together an exceptional menu offering delicious and varied Latin American fusion dishes that are thoughtfully prepared and beautifully served.
The staff are attentive and clearly passionate about the food. Hearing about the varied menu I decided to take a risk and invite a vegetarian friend who ocassionally eats fish to accompany me for Sunday lunch, hoping she would find dishes to enjoy despite the prevalence of beef on the menu.
For our starter we shared some delicately flavoured seared tuna splashed in soya, ginger, chilli and sesame seeds along with a couple of spinach empanadas, with an intriguing aji and lime sauce on the side. My friend ordered the sous-vide black cod for her main and was bowled over by the amazing flavours. The fish was caramelised in a sweet soya and honey glaze, on top of a beetroot and carrot purée with roasted butternut squash and cashew nuts on the side. Dried apples and strawberries served as a charming garnish.
I was lucky enough to sample both the filet steak and the asado, both of which were exceptionally tender and flavoursome. Fresh asparagus with hollandaise sauce, broccoli with garlic butter, hand cuts chips, and thin sweet potato fires were a perfect accompaniment, as were the selection of homemade breads.
If you think your belt needs loosening by now, there is still room for another Argentine delight: dulce de leche ice-cream or a generous slice of passion fruit and blueberry cheesecake which both end the meal perfectly, along with some mini alfajores cakes topped with a scoop of dulce de leche ice cream.
After this feast, don’t feel guilty if you gained a few kilos. You can start losing those carbs on the 10-minute walk to the nearest tube station.
Highlight: 300g fillet steak
Down: Too good to be true? Well, it’s a bit pricy…but isn't everything in London?
Verdict: Very good.
Where? 176 Upper Street, Islington, London N1 1RG
When? Mon-Fri: 5pm - 11pm / Sat-Sun: 12pm - 11pm
More info: COMEDOR is winner of the 2015 LUKAS for Fusion Restaurant of the Year
Tel and address: 020 7354 2843 / info@comedorgrillandbar.co.uk
